Day 16: Cherating
Decide to take a trip to Cukai today to find a cycle shop to get our babies serviced. Unfortunately, Cukai cycle shops only sell cycles;they do not service them. Damn. We will just have to do it ourselves. But tomorrow – we're knackered now. Head back to Cherating, and Lee gets a flat tyre again, although this time, the fault lies with Halfords, as the seam has split at the bottom of the valve. Tried fixing it at roadside, but eventually had to replace the inner tube. Only one left now, da da daaaaaaaaa. Made it back to Cherating for 3pm and time to head for the beach.
After kipping for while, we awaken to hear two blokes discussing something in the sea. I'm a pretty good swimmer, but not stupid – I've seen the rip tide. But if it's someone in trouble I'm gonna try and help. I ask them where he is, and when pointed out, I can't see anything. I'm looking too far out – there's something in the water closer to shore and as I start to make my way down, it becomes clear that it's a person, so I'm running into the sea, screaming for Lee, and about waist height, he's there face down in the water. I'm scared to turn him over but I do. Lee and I pull him out. He's not breathing and Lee starts CPR but it becomes clear that it's not working and that he's passed away. We're worried that his family are looking for him. Everyone looks pretty shocked and we're devastated to hear that he was spotted 20 minutes earlier, but no-one did anything.
Not a good day. We've given our details to the local police and are thinking about leaving Cherating in the morning.
Kilometres: 30
Total Kilometres: 532
Day 17: Cherating
We've heard that he was European, holidaying on his own, and was staying at a chalet down the road from us. The Malaysian embassy are in the process of contacting his. We don't know his name. We don't want to go back to the beach, so the day is spent in the chalet and in restaurants. We have a massage booked at 4pm – it turns out to be fabulous, if a little intimate!!! Lee spends 2 hours cleaning the bikes; they look like new and will hopefully last us to Kuala Terrangganu, where we'll get them booked in for a proper going over. We head to Kemasik tomorrow, approximately 30km up the road and a flat ride (according to mum and dad).
Kilometres: 0
Total Kilometres: 532
Day 18: Cherating to Kertih
At 7.30am, paying for our stay at Tanjung Villa's, it was pointed out to me that we had said we would spend 5 nights; last night being our fourth. “No” I said, “Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, ahhhh”. Now my maths skills have never been good, and I again apologise to my parents for forking out hard earned cash for private tuition lessons. Funny thing is though, Lee Lee didn't even spot it.
We left anyway, no point being somewhere you can't really enjoy yourself, and we head off to Kermasik. We cycle straight there, taking 3hrs and 45km. On the way, we meet the biggest lizard to date; it's about four foot long, playing “chicken” between two lanes on Highway 3. We tell it to stop messing about, but it doesn't listen and we don't wait for the inevitable;it'll be gross. When we get to Kermasik, it's little more than a dusty road with a field of houses attached, but the view from the shore is wonderful; the sea is crystal clear and the sand bright yellow. No accommodation though. We press on to Kertih, another 15km, and we're pleased to hear that there are plenty of hostels/hotels there. However, we're also informed that in the district of Terengganu, the working week is Monday to Thursday (lucky buggers). Hardly anywhere is open and most places are full. We have to fork out 80RM for a room, but it's got a bath and satellite TV (woohoo). Two meals of Nasi Goreng Ayam (fried rice with chicken) as there's not much else that won't burn the roof of your mouth off, a sneaky McFlurry from the local McDonalds and we head for bed.
Kilometres: 62 (we took a wrong turn and headed inland for a bit)
Total Kilometres: 594
Day 19: Kertih to Dungun
Earlyish start from Kertih, leaving at 9am. Not much to report – flat terrain through to Dungun. Only one hotel open to us – the second reminded us of Pekan, and although it was 15RM, we decided on the one with aircon in the centre of town for 65RM. Like Nemasi and Kermasik, we're disappointed that there are no hostels on the beach road – it's so beautiful; but maybe there isn't much demand here. We try to get our bikes seen to, but the local cycle shops seem apprehensive in dealing with more then one cog. We'll have to wait until we get to Kuala Terangganu. It would appear that Dungun does not receive many foreign visitors – it feels like we're on the wrong side of the bars at a zoo. Everyone is staring (sometimes even following us) and it does get a little tiresome – we have to remind ourselves that we are guests in their country and remain calm and collected. We'll leave in the morning and head for Merang.
Kilometres: 45
Total Kilometres: 639
Day 20: Dungun to Merang
60km completed today on flat terrain and we arrived in Merang at 4pm. Digs found at Merang Guest House and Restaurant, but later discovered they didn't actually have a restaurant. Strange. Best Nasi Goreng Ayam to date found a little way down the road for 11RM (£2.20) for both of us. Under budget today for the first time in ages – we're trying to claw back some of it day by day.
Kilometres: 60
Total Kilometres: 699