Bangkok to Phrae

Day 74: Bangkok to Phitsanulok (via train)

After much umming and aahing, Lee Lee and I decided to get the train to Phitsanulok. We know it's a long way from Bangkok, and it does feel like cheating, but we've only got 12 days left on our Thai visas and we don't want to fork out 1900bht (£38) each for a month's extension, plus we need to return to Thailand later and don't want them mad with us for overstaying this visa. We've calculated that by cycling from Phitsanulok, we will have a short introduction to cycling again on flat roads before we meet the mountains past Uttaradit. The train ride was laborious; we left at 7am in the morning and arrived at 2.30pm. There were no first or second class seats left so we have to travel on the third class wooden seats and they are so uncomfortable. Digs found in Phitsanulok for 150bht (fan room, shared bathroom with squat toilet).

Kilometers: 0
Total Kilometers: 1705

Day 75: Phitsanulok

In spite of our concerns that time is running out on our visas, we thought we could manage one day in Phitsanulok to sightsee. Besides, we are totally beat from not sleeping well yesterday. We visit the Budda-making factory in the town-centre and also the rare birds sanctuary.











Day 76: Phitsanulok to Uttaradit

Today was a whopper; we had planned doing over 100km from the start, and made it (albeit absolutely knackerred) to our destination, Uttaradit. The minor roads we cycled were flat and we were pleased to return to cycling through tiny villages, where everyone shouts greetings to you “Welcome to Thailand” or “Where you going” or “Ooh, bicycle”! We read a blog last night from a couple who had cycled north Thailand just a few months back. They wrote about getting a good discount on a quite posh hotel in the city, and I have decided that the discount will also apply to us. And it was! Room secured at Fridays Hotel in Uttaradit for 400bht (shower, bath, satellite tv and free wifi). I think there must be something pitiful about having a sodden, knackerred cyclist dripping her sweat on the front desk that makes a wide eyed receptionist nod so emphatically to our cheeky offer. However, when we finally unpack in the room and open the curtains, we're faced with a horrendous but amazing sight; Mountains - loads of them and in all directions. Kate, now wide eyed herself, frantically searches her bags for the compass and calculates that indeed, we will have to pass over those tomorrow to get to Phrae. Welcome to Thailand.





Kilometers: 116km
Total Kilometers: 1821km

Day 77: Uttaradit to Phrae

There's a scene in the film Grease, where the headmistresses' secretary, on watching their poor soccer team, agrees with the head coach of said team that what they're basically gong to do is rip the guts out of the opposing team to secure a win. This is our mindset today. It's a little hilly from the outset and Lee Lee (trying to be funny) keeps asking if we're in the lighter colour of our map yet (lighter colour indicates higher ground). “I hope so” is my reply, as we limp towards the range, hoping against hope that a bicycle track has been dug out around the base of the mountains. No such luck; as we turn a corner we can see the start. It's pretty steep and soon enough, we're struggling – even the trucks are having difficulties to get up this monster, passing us not much faster than we're pedalling. We stop for regular water breaks, but there is still no end in sight; after every corner we turn we see continual steep climbs. On the plus side, the view is magnificent.




We finally reach a cafe, which we calculate must be very near the top as we're quite level with all but one summit around us. We eat what we can get our hands on; fried eggs, BBQ chicken and sticky rice. We get back on our bikes for round two, and are pleased to find that after a couple of corners, it's the descent. This lasts around 10km (bar two little uphill climbs) and it's wonderful! Later we try and calculate the uphill distance. From the map, it would appear that the range was 20km in length, which means that we cycled 10km of steep uphill.




It doesn't feel like it was 10km which I suppose is good... Digs found at Riverside Guest House for 400bht and when we finally get in the room, I lay down my confession. My Achilles tendons on both ankles are sore, but the left one extremely so, and when Lee feels it (I can only describe it as creaking), I can see that he's worried. We decide to stop here for two nights, and if it isn't better by tomorrow morning we'll go the local hospital or reflexologist.

Kilometers: 87km

Total Kilometers: 1908km

Day 78: Phrae

In the morning, Kate reports that her ankles are not creaking anymore so we decide not to seek medical help, but just rest for another day. However, later in the day, Kate tells me that the creaking is back and we decide that tomorrow we will definitely visit the local hospital. Much of the day spent relaxing on the guesthouses' veranda, which overlooks the river, eating, reading and trying to converse with the owners daughter.




Kilometers: 0

Total Kilometers: 1908


Day 79: Phrae

Early morning for Kate and Lee Lee as we head off to the local hospital. We are offered a lift there by one of the staff, but it turns out that he's only got a moped and we want to arrive alive at the hospital. So we cycle instead – it's only 1km down the road and easy riding without the panniers weighing us down. At hospital, we're seen in record time, x-rays taken of both ankles and advised that I have achillis tendonitis and should take it easy for the next week. After further clarification, the doctor states that I should continue to cycle but not to the extent that I have been recently. We decide to rest for the rest of today and tomorrow, but will have to leave on Friday to make it to the Laos border before our Thai visa's expire. The guesthouse we're staying at has an attached restaurant which is known for it's seafood, and we treat ourselves to a fried serpent-headed fish with rice and mixed vegetables. Yummy!

Kilometers: 0

Total Kilometers: 1908


Day 80: Phrae

Another day of rest for Kate and Lee Lee, spent watching films and reading. For dinner, we have the most amazing battered squid and fishcakes. Tonight will be our last night in Phrae as Kate's ankles are feeling much better; no more creaking.

Kilometres: 0

Total Kilometres: 1908

Bangkok

Days 66 to 73: Bangkok

Considering we spent just under two weeks in Thailand's capital city, we didn't see an awful lot. We did visit quite a few embassies to inquire about visa's, saw the pingpong show (thanks for the tip, Leza!), sat in the holiest temple in all of Thailand which housed the emerald\jade Buddah (the most sacred one). We ate till we were nearly sick at the Marriot Resort and Spa's Sunday Brunch buffet; gorging on oysters, steak, caviar, sushi and the most delectable desserts you could possibly imagine. We were ripped off royally by the tuk-tuk drivers for the first three days, driven nearly insane by the incessant touts who failed to recognise us night after night after night and by the end of our stay in Bangkok, were quite glad to leave. We braved the Bangkok traffic on our bikes a number of times, and sadly waved goodbye to Bill on day 72 – he's off to Cambodia...

Not much more to say really, so here are the pics!













Lee Lee tries the oysters...



and seems to like them....!



Kate's turn next, but it doesn't seem to have the desired effect....!





Instead, she turns to the tried and trusted desserts table.....



Kate slept for 23 hours solid following this meal.

Hua Hin to Bangkok

Day 61: Hua Hin

Pleasant day today, resting after a 5 day stretch of cycling. Hua Hin is extremely touristy and somewhat sleazy. We had a walk down to the beach area and sat for a while gazing out to sea until the rain started, which prompted an early return to the room where we relaxed, read and slept. We had fried frogs legs for supper; very tasty.

Kilometers: 0

Total Kilometers: 1627


Day 62: Hua Hin to Pretchaburi

Today was an absolute scorcher, forcing us to take more regular breaks which even tyrant Bill didn't complain about. We pass through a quieter sea side resort called Cha Am, which appears less sleazy then Hua Hin and in hindsight, we should have pushed on a little further two days ago.




We arrive in Pretchaburi and start searching for a guest house but encounter difficulties until a friendly Thai bloke got on his moped and shows us the way. The guest house is not great; Kate thinks it's another bail hostel, but we settled down. Later we find a great little restaurant just along the road which we return to several times.

Kilometers: 78

Total Kilometers: 1705


Day 63: Pretchaburi to Bangkok (Via night train)

Bill and Lee made an early visit this morning to the train station to find out about the 3pm train to Bangkok. They came back to report that the afternoon train would not allow the bikes on and we would have to catch the night train at 1:15am. Gutted. The guest house refused to offer a discount considering we'd quit the room at midnight and charged us a whole nights rent again. In the meantime, we decided to visit the city's Wat and temple grounds...





Arrived at the train station in plenty of time only to be told that the 1.15am train would be full and maybe we could get on the 1:50am train, which in any case had been delayed. Come 2:20am we are able to find space for our bikes and we're off to Bangkok!



Kilometers: 0

Total Kilometers: 1705


Day 64: Bangkok

We arrive in Bangkok at 05:30hrs; all three of us tired from not sleeping since yesterday morning, and Kate's weird in-built navigation system takes us straight to Kho San Road, where we dismount and have some well earned brekkie. With only 20mins gone since arriving on Kho San Road, we're joined by a pissed up American, who claims that today he will be hacking into a major banking system with some Russians and then heading off to complete a relatively major gem deal in the afternoon – what a tit! Digs found around the corner, on a quieter street, and we collapse to sleep. Later we take a walk trying to find a book shop, this turns into a major hike after a tuk-tuk driver politely told us to go in the complete wrong direction (charming fellow). Bangkok is absolutely crazy – we're getting hounded by everyone and from all sides; taxi's, tuk-tuks, t-shirts, drinks, food, tattoo's, bracelets, art, music, tailor-made suits, stupid wooden things that make frog noises......AAAAGGHHHHH!

Kilometers: 0

Total Kilometers:1705


Day 65: Bangkok

Today we cycled through the city traffic to take our bikes to be serviced and hopefully for Lee Lee's clicking pedal to be fixed once and for all. Bangkok traffic is crazy and it's soon discovered that drivers are not as courteous as they are out in the sticks. On the way we stop off at the British Embassy to let them know we are cycling north and find out they have a website into which we can log our details and from which they can track us. Bike shop located (well done Kate) and our cycles will be serviced and ready for collection on Saturday. However, the shops cycling gear is rather expensive (at four times the price we expected to pay) so we decide to look elsewhere. We take a taxi back from the shop and then sample the “delights” of Kho San Road. Bill decides to have a tattoo done in the original thai bamboo style.

Kilometers:0

Total Kilometers:1705

Chumphon to Hua Hin

Day 56: Chumphon to Ban Tham Thong




The bike shop we located yesterday was a big disappointment; they didn't do services but told us Lee's bike needed a new second cog and quoted us 800bht. We noticed that new bikes being sold in the shop were going for around 4000bht so we got a little suspicious and left. At another shop round the corner, Lee's clicking bike was fixed for 40bht – it would appear that the bearings in his pedals were full of grit. We leave Chumphon and its cozy hotel and we're back on the road after an eight day break. We've decided to limit todays cycling to 30km, and find a resort in Phatio, but the topiary freaks Kate out, the caretaker looks like he could be capable of murder and they're charging 900 bht for one night. We decide to bed down at the next place, but this changes when we meet Bill,



a Canadian who is also cycling towards Bangkok. It transpires Bill has taken much the same route and Lee and I, although at a much faster pace – he's completed 1800km in 3 weeks. Some people are crazy! We decide to hang out for a bit and ride together for the next few days or so, although Bill is used to cycling over 100km per day – we'll slow him down, but not today – we encounter difficulties finding digs for the night and end up being charged 900bht for a double room, albeit in a stunning setting, so Lee and I share with Bill to keep the cost down. Bill looks lovely in pink.....




Kilometers: 88km

Total Kilometers: 1380km


Day 57: Ban Tham Thong to Bang Saphan Noi

After a good nights kip – it better had be for 900bht – we set off with no clear destination in mind.



I get the feeling that this doesn't worry Bill; it always turns out well in the end... Unfortunately after 27kms the rain starts and after a 2hr stop in a shop, coupled with Bill's confession that he cycles in the rain, we reach a compromise; we'll cycle in the rain as long as we stop at the next guest house. Deal! Digs found after a further 10km for 400bht in Bang Saphan Noi – tidy little bungalows, but riddled with the dreaded mozzies!!! The resort has a restaurant attached and we plan to eat there later, but when we turn up at 8pm, we're informed that the it has shut for the night. We're just about to start walking the 3km to the last village we passed when some people from the resort (not sure if they are staff or guests) proffer their concerns that it is too far and we grab a much appreciated lift in the back of their pick up truck to the nearest 7/11 shop. Crisps, chocolate, cakes and milk for dinner!

Kilometers: 37km

Total Kilometers:1417 km


Day 58: Bang Saphan Noi to Thap Sakae

Cycling in the rain is not so bad really – it rained all day today so we didn't have any choice in the matter. We think the rainy season has definitely kicked in now, so Lee and I plan to invest in some proper cycling gear like Bill's when we reach Bangkok – I can't cycle in cotton – it holds the water, makes me cold and takes 18hrs to dry. After 64km, we all finally decide to call it a day in Thap Sakae, it a Chinese run guest house for 400bht per night.

Kilometers: 64

Total Kilometers: 1481

Day 59: Thap Sakae to Prachuap Khiri Khan

We limit Bill to 47km today, on fairly uneventful and boring day of cycling. There are no coast roads to PKK on our maps, so we decide to play it safe and head up Highway 4, which is traffic heavy. We reach PKK in the early afternoon, and on our way into the town centre, notice a temple at the top of a large hill – we will climb this later.



Fantastic digs found for 400bht with all mod cons and a swimming pool (which we did not use in any case). Back to the hill, where Bill buys bananas for the hoards of monkeys which live here but promptly has the bag ripped out of his hand by the mischievous little buggers seconds later! 396 steps later, we're at the top with fabulous views over the town centre and coastline.









Kilometers: 46

Total Kilometers: 1527


Day 60: Prachuap Khiri Khan to Hua Hin

A colossal 100km completed today, with Bill (fondly referred to as the “bike tyrant”) mostly in front, out of shouting distance; possibly in revenge for yesterday's poor accomplishment and a ploy to push us newbies to our limit. We are now cycling 30km at a time without a break. We are looking forward to buying cushioned cycling shorts in Bangkok as our bottoms are now a permanent bruised colour! We reach Hua Hin and find digs for 490bht at Les BoBo's (no joke), and once inside, Kate is delighted to find a pet rabbit just like Jessica, only white. We will rest here for two days before cycling to Pretchubari and,on Bills's advice, catch the train to Bangkok instead of cycling in. Apparently, within 100km of Bangkok, the traffic is manic and reaching the city centre itself will be very difficult. We head out into Hua Hin later for food, and we notice many older western men with young thai girls. Bill finds the women here beautiful; even the ladyboys!

Kilometers: 100

Total Kilometers: 1627

Koh Tao to Chumphon

Day 51: Koh Tao

Lee took his exam today following the completion of the classroom work, and he sailed through with 94%. Way to go Lee Lee!!!!In the afternoon, he's out completing dives 1 and 2 in the sea with his group – they spot a barracuda and other various fish. Katy, Olly and I have still not managed to make it round the island – today is a little overcast and it looks like it may rain so the day is spent on Sairee Beach in a cafe, reading and talking.








Kilometers: 0km

Total Kilometers: 1282km


Day 52: Koh Tao

Lee's out in the sea again today, completing his last 2 dives before he becomes a fully fledged PADI open water diver. However, he reported being very ill on the boat to the dive site; the waters are becoming rougher each day and Lee was not able to hold in his lunch. Eugh! On a brighter note, Katy, Olly and I have finally got off our backsides and visited Freedom Beach, on the southern-most tip of the island.




Kilometers: 0 km

Total Kilometers: 1282 km

Day 53: Koh Tao

Day of rest for Lee Lee as he is now a diver (not the Ronaldo sort!), and we did have plans to visit the south of the island again, until the rain started. Instead, we eat and sleep, in preparation for this evenings long planned drinking session.


Lee Lee's dive group plus instructors

For dinner we have fajitas at the local Mexican restaurant washed down with a jug of Sangria, cue the start of the nights debauchery; two buckets of Sangsom (Thai Whiskey) and Coke, two bucket of margaritas and a few beers. Hence the photos.










Kilometers: 0km

Total Kilometers:1282

Day 54: Koh Tao to Chumphon

Kate is not well this morning, having drunk her own body weight in margaritas last night. She has not been able to sleep well as she'd been throwing up since 2am and she doesn't look good. A full English Breakfast is required but she can't manage it. We have to get a boat to the mainland at 2pm so I've done my nursey bit and bought her some sea sickness tablets. They don't work. By the end of the rough seas, Kate has thrown up more times than I've seen in the past ten years and she looks green. However, she's managed to get a little kip as the boat neared the mainland which is good, because we have to cycle 10km to the town of Chumphon to look for digs.



It's sad to say goodbye to Katy and Olly, and as they get on the coach to the train station, we're left looking a bit lonely, and a bit crazy on our bikes! Digs found at a lovely place for 650bht – we'll stay here 2 nights cos Kate needs to recuperate – she still can't discuss last night or she'll throw up again.

Kilometers: 10km

Total Kilometers: 1292km

Day 55: Chumphon

Kate feels a little better this morning, and she's managed to hold down food for 12 hours now. However, mention the night that caused her to feel this way and she's nearly on her way to the bathroom again! Later on in the day, we find a place which may service our bicycles, but unfortunately it's closed today (Sunday); we'll return tomorrow. Kate has her legs and eyebrows waxed and she is looking much better now.

Kilometers: 0

Total Kilometers:1292

Ban Na San to Koh Tao

Day 46: Ban Na San to Surat Thani

A very easy ride into Surat Thani today as the wind was behind us, although it was blistering hot again. We arrive in the town centre and find the local tourist office for info on accommodation and getting to Koh Tao, as we are meeting Katy (one of Kate's work colleagues also currently on a sabbatical along with her fiance, Olly) there! Digs found at Samaporn Hotel (strangely, not a brothel...!) for 350baht. We decide to visit a proper restaurant this evening as a treat and blow the rest of our daily budget.

Kilometers: 47

Total Kilometers: 1282


Day 47: Surat Thani to Koh Tao (via ferry)

We stay in the hotel for most of the day just relaxing after our trip across country. There is nothing to see locally; all the main attractions are at least 20km away so we sleep and await the ferry at 11.00pm to Koh Tao. The tickets are purchased and we get the ferry which turns out to have small beds for the passengers. Luckily the boat is not full and we can stretch out a little, but not much sleep gained cos some men don't half snore! The view as we approach Koh Toa at dawn is breathtaking – this looks like paradise from a distance........






Kilometers: 0

Total Kilometer: 1282

Day 48: Koh Tao

We arrive at 7am and quickly find the Crystal Dive resort where we will be staying for the next four nights whilst Lee does his PADI Open Water diving course. The accommodation is free due to the fact that Lee will be a student diver. It turns out this is a very good thing, as the island is quite pricey... We stupidly fall asleep nigh on entering the room, and sleep till 2.30pm. Later, we find an excellent restaurant just round the corner which does a smashing fried rice with chicken that actually has more than two pieces of chicken in it! The resort is quite lively at night – we would join the party if they weren't playing “All Rise” by the boy band “Blue”on the stereo system. Besides, the TV in our beach-front room is showing the Liverpool match tonight. Katy and Olly arrive on Koh Tao tomorrow morning from the Thai port of Chumphon, and I'd like to be able to meet them off the boat, so an early night is in order........

Kilometers: 0

Total Kilometers: 1282

Day 49: Koh Tao

We're up early in anticipation of Katy and Olly's arrival on Koh Tao – their last email suggested that they would be arriving by ferry in the morning; I have done my homework, it's either the 8.45am, 9.45am or 10.00am. The alarm goes off at 8.30am and it's duly snoozed for a while, until I hear the roar of a catamaran across the bay. Mad dash to get dressed and down to the harbour, which is a good job, cos they're on this one!



It's great to see Katy and Olly again,



and I'm looking forward to relaxing with them whilst Lee completes his diving course. Today he is in the classroom; he enters at 1.30pm and isn't released until 5.30pm.

Kilometers: 0

Total Kilometers: 1282


Day 50: Koh Tao

Lee's got a full day ahead of him – start at 8.30am and won't finish until 6.30pm, but at least he'll get in the pool later and have his first experience of breathing underwater...



Katy, Olly and I lounge around the pool, developing our tans and wondering whether to explore the island by bicycle tomorrow...

Kilometers: 0

Total Kilometers:1282