Our tuk tuk driver (otherwise known as our guide to the long distance bus station) had obviously never escorted cyclists. He was pretty fast and he lost us on a couple of occasions. However, we arrived at the bus station with plenty of time to spare, but disappointment stepped in when we saw our bus.
Not quite the five star VIP transportation we were expecting really, and we were even more peeved to learn that if we'd cycled down here yesterday and bought the tickets ourselves, we would have saved a fair bit on the arrangement fee charged by the travel agent. Damn! The scenery on the way to Mengla, however, was nothing short of spectacular, and at the beginning, we were cross with ourselves that we hadn't cycled it, especially since the weather today was beautiful. We took no pictures; Kate refused as “we didn't deserve have any”(?!). However, after about and hour into the 12 hour journey, we query whether we would have physically been able to make it. Ascents in excess of 5km, and lots of them, with no respite for 150km. Even the downhill bits are scarily steep. The authorities claim that the paving of Route 3 has been completed, but we find that the road is badly potholed, and in places half the road has disappeared down a ravine. In addition, there are hardly any cafe's or water stops and we figure if we were to cycle it, we'd have to carry 10ltrs of water between us. We eventually decide that it's do-able and plan to return to Laos, entering from our exit point. It would be such an achievement....(albeit quite easy to say from the safety of a bus)!
The border crossing into China is exciting for Kate......
and we are let in with no problems.....The last leg of the bus journey proves tiring. The roads are winding and narrow and our bus driver is a masochist. It's so bumpy that we are literally unable to breathe properly. We reach Mengla late afternoon, feeling black and blue all over, and now the fun begins. It's clear from the start that we're gonna struggle with communication in China, and it's only by the grace of an English speaking young woman, Chan Mi, that we ever get our bikes and selves on a sleeper bus to Kunming. We never asked about an extra charge for the bikes and were not asked to pay one! The bus does exactly what it says on the tin. A coach with sleeping berths!
Lee and I get the back of the bus completely to ourselves which proves a lifesaver; these bunks were designed for little people but Kate gets to stretch out across five of them and we have a fairly good six hour sleep. The other six are spent looking at the countryside lit by moonlight, and it looks beautiful.
Kilometers: 8km
Total Kilometers: 2244 km
Day 94: Kunming
We arrive in Kunming at 8am and it's busy! We find our way to the Lonely Planets' recommended guesthouse: Cloudland Youth Hostel, but on our arrival we're asked if we had reserved a room. Oops! We have to wait around till midday to learn that thankfully there is a room available, but it's gonna cost Y150 (£15) per night to stay here. Ouch! On the plus side, there's plenty to do here; hundreds of books and free wifi (but we can't access Facebook and updating the blog is hit and miss!). After a much needed shower, Lee and I head off to get money, buy a road atlas of China and have my bike looked at; it's back wheel is no longer true and will get worse if it's not fixed. Cycling in Kunming is easy; there are cycle lanes and cyclists everywhere. Two out of three ain't bad; money and atlas (albeit in Chinese only) secured, but no joy getting my tire trued; we'll try another bike shop tomorrow. We also have to find out if there's a back way out of Kunming as all roads out of here seem to be expressways (cyclists banned).
Kilometers: 10km
Total Kilometers: 2254km
Day 95: Kunming
Today we took a trip to another cycle shop whose details we found on tinterweb. The guys there were very helpful, and one could speak a little English. When he couldn't understand what we were asking, he phoned a mate who did and we managed to get directions out of Kunming towards Shilin, find out that it's not my wheel that's the problem; it's my tyre and it won't cause any problems, learn that the route to Shilin is downhill (yes!) and buy some more cycling clothes. The rest of the morning was spent visiting the main park in the area and doing mundane chores, sorting out money etc, and we were back at Cloudland mid afternoon to sort out the route we are going to take to Guilin, aided by a helpful barmaid, who wrote the Chinese characters of towns we would pass through.
Kilometers: 20km cycled around Kunming but not added to total
Total Kilometers: 2254
Day 96: Kunming to Shilin
We're on the road for 10.00am . We were up at 8am, packed and fed and ready to go for about 9am but our gear caused quite a stir with the other travellers and we spent an hour chatting. The route out of Kunming was very busy and we ended up on a stretch of road known as an Expressway on which bikes are expressly forbidden. Oops. Fortunately, a friendly motorcyclist stopped and with the help of his sat nav, he led us on the the right road. We followed this up a little later with directions from passers-by and after about 20km we found ourselves in the outskirts of Kunming heading in the right direction and accompanied by excellent scenery. However, midway into our journey to Shilin, we were confronted by a 9km ascent; this is the picture from very near the top. We must have misheard the cycle shop staff yesterday, or else they were telling us what they thought we wanted to hear...!
On the plus side, what goes up must come down, and we were rewarded with a 4.5km descent, reaching 57km per hour!
As we were nearing Shilin, we passed through the Stone Forest; hundreds and hundreds of granite karsts jutting out of the landscape.
We were hoping to visit this later but time was ticking on, we didn't get to our accommodation until 5pm and by that time we were filthy from cycling a highway perused by massive lorries. We did, however, get a good view of the landscape as we were passing through and we reckoned that once you'd seen one, you'd seen 'em all and it was not quite worth a whole day. As for the food in China, we are pleasantly surprised. We had been warned by quite a few people that the food (and smell of it) is gross. We ate fried rice with chicken for lunch (strange rice, almost pudding like) and fried noodles with chicken for dinner, both of which were delicious. I did manage to create a few giggles from Lee Lee with my attempts to eat noodles with chopsticks, but I'll get better....
Kilometers: 91
Total Kilometers: 2345
Day 97: Shilin to Zhaokua
Thinking this was a nice easy 74km we set off at 10am. Armed with two maps, we're pretty sure which road we need to take – that is until everyone we ask points us to the other road. Ermmm...We start cycling the other road and quickly deduce it is the wrong road after all and do a u-ey. However, on asking more people they again point us back in the same direction and we concede that they must be right despite what the map reads and taking into account the fact that they actually live here. However, after spotting signposts signaling the distance to places we do not want to go, we think that this road must be quicker by car than the other. Either that, or the road we want does not actually exist. It's quite possible out here. After asking just about everyone we meet, we make it to Zhaokua in 72km rather then 74km; not too bad after all. On our arrival we ask the local Police for directions to a hotel, but they inform us that we have to go 50km further to Shizong. A few minutes later, however, they change their minds and say there is somewhere 15km further on. We pedal off in that direction and on the way we stop at a garage to check we're headed in the right one, but.... we're also told that there is a hotel in town. Never trust a copper. Or three of them for that matter. On arrival at said hotel, we are informed the room is 20RMB (£2), and on seeing the facilities we know why; good job it's only for one night – we do not dare use the shared showers because they smell so bad. The toilets are atrocious but needs must. Eeeugh.
Food found fairly cheaply - egg fried rice, pork and fried veg. We turn out to be the centre of attention with one local actually filming us on her mobile phone.
Kilometers: 72
Total Kilometers: 2417
Day 98: Zhaokua to Luoping
We had an early start this morning because we just couldn't wait to get out of our minging, and I mean MINGING accommodation. The toilets got worse as the night went on and I refused to use them in the morning, which meant I felt fairly uncomfortable until we stopped for lunch and ironically, the toilet at the restaurant was on a par with last nights. However, having been a care assistant in my former years it would appear that I maintain the ability to eat after experiencing the second of the two worst latrines in the whole world. Prior to stopping for food, a car pulled us over and it's occupants gave us bottles of water accompanied by an excited thumbs up. The rest of the day was day was spent accompanied by breathtaking scenery
and Wei, a Chinese lad who said he is cycling to Tibet which strangely enough, was in the opposite direction in which we were all headed. He joined us for the ride to Luoping,
and helped us secure a room for the night (Y80/£8) at the second hotel we stopped at (the first wouldn't let us in because we were so dirty!!!) before heading off to catch a bus to Tibet (?). However, after Wei left, the hotelier changed his mind about letting us stay and we eventually found a decent(ish) place for Y40 (£4). At dinner, we were royally done over by a restauranteur who saw westerners and thought he had struck gold. He brought us a huge bowl in which simmered a whole chicken. Liver, head, heart, claws; the lot. I suppose it was our fault for not asking the price, but we hardly expected it to come to Y100/£10. I told him he was a naughty boy for not telling us the cost before he brought it to us but he didn't seem to understand. On the plus side, it was absolutely delicious.
Kilometers: 86
Total Kilometers: 2503
Day 99: Luoping to Xingyi
The first few kilometres out of Luoping were surprisingly easy which gave cause for concern; what's up ahead?! Our question was answered when we reached 50km. The last 39km were hard going, with steep ascents with few plateaus. Being accompanied by breathtaking scenery all the way again made it much easier to bear.
As we reached the summit of of one of the mountains, a female occupant of a passing car wound down her window to say “wow!”.
We finally reach Xingyi, feeling pretty shattered, at around 5.30pm. Digs found at Panjiang Hotel for Y120 per night, reduced from Y280. Bargain! This is one of the more comfortable places we've stayed in so far and it comes with free internet, although it would appear that our laptop is cause for excitement for some; we were emailing Lee's dad with a Chinese fella peering over our shoulder! No such thing as privacy in China – we have been filmed on mobile phones, followed, had cars pull over about a kilometre in front waiting for us to pass and all we hear are excited giggles coming from inside. At times, we have found it exasperating that our Ni Hao's (hello's) have gone unreturned because people have been so shocked to see westerners. I suppose westerners on bicycles topped it off for them! I wonder what I would have to see in England to make my jaw drop to the floor and forget my manners! Actually I can remember seeing a photo of a fella I know (you know who you are) wearing a mankini on his stag do. Yeah...that did it!!!!!!!
We will rest tomorrow and find the local PSB (Public Security Bureau) who may be able to extend our visas. We've heard that some travellers have been given generous extensions in provincial towns and we hope that by turning up in our cycling gear we can convince them to issue us with a 60 day extension instead of the usual 30.
Kilometers: 89
Total Kilometers: 2592
Day 100: Xingyi (rest day)
We never got up for breakfast. The alarm rang at 8.00am but I could hardly speak I was so tired and Lee got the gist that I could do without. He didn't complain and we eventually got up at 11am. After pottering around the room and the lobby for a bit (for wifi access, not just loitering) we headed off to the local PSB donned in our new (more importantly, clean) cycling gear and half filled panniers to try to secure a 60 day extension on our Chinese visas. Unfortunately, we were informed that as we still had 23 days remaining our our existing visa, it was too early to apply for an extension. We were further advised that we could apply in many towns along the way to Guilin so we'll try again wherever we are after another 4 days of cycling. Whilst we were at the PSB, another officer remembered that an English woman had attended the Bureau yesterday and after about 20 minutes of searching for her details, to our horror, he proceeded to call her on her mobile phone. Esther works at Edinburgh University (I think she teaches Chinese Language) and is visiting her in-laws here in Xingyi. She was relieved to hear that we were alright; I think the officer may have given the impression that we were in some kind of trouble. We think that the judiciary were hoping that they could be the instigators of an English get-together here in their home town!
Kilometers: 0
Total Kilometers: 2592
Day 101: Xingyi to Anlong
About 5km out of Xingyi we were at Maling Gorge, a local beauty spot and the start of a massive winding ascent (not on the map.
The day really dragged on for us after this; not many more steep ascents but plenty of continuous smaller ones. By the time we reached Anlong it was nearing 5pm and we were pretty shattered. We located a hotel pretty sharpish for Y60 (£6) in the centre of town and we were astounded to find an internet connection in the room! The people here in Anlong are much friendlier than we have previously encountered; a lot of waving, “Ni Hao's” and “Helloooo's” which has been a breath of fresh air. We have come under budget again today, only spending £13. I think that we can live quite cheaply in China. Chicken fried rice (again) for lunch and chicken drumsticks with ice cream for dinner.
Kilometers: 72
Total Kilometers: 2664
Day 102: Anlong to Ceheng
Today was very depressing. The cycling was hard going; many mid-range ascents and only one big descent on the way into Ceheng. To make it even worse, our map depicts a mountainous range for the next two days' ride! What are we up against?!
The journey was also trying – lots of stares and very few people were approachable. The town of Ceheng is pretty unsightly; I don't think they get many foreign visitors and at dinner, we can see one reason why they don't come here. Just after we had ordered our noodle dinner, the owner of the shop started acting rather suspiciously and we quickly realised he had positioned his mobile phone towards us and was filming us. After a hard day's ride we had had enough. I made sure that our suspicions were right; the man got very embarrassed and ran into the safety of his kitchen. We left before the food reached our table.
Kilometers: 62
Total Kilometers: 2726
Day 103: Ceheng to Wangmo
Today was extremely tough. We stopped for lunch at the 30km mark, only a few people there to begin with but after a few calls were made on mobile phones, we ended our meal (of fried rice) with about 20 people crowded round us; one of them could speak a little English.
The owner of the restaurant refused to take our money for the meal and we got on our way after a well organised photo shoot, heeding warnings of more ascents ahead. Out of the many we cycled, one took us two hours to climb! Two hours! The view was extraordinary.
On the penultimate ascent however, Kate got a puncture and we had to walk a little way to the next village for some shade to fix it. Again when we arrived, there was only a small group of women outside a house but as soon as I started to repair the puncture, the whole village crowded round!
We have a video of it and will try to put it on the blog. We finally reached Wangmo after 7.5hrs of cycling, a little perturbed that it took us so long to cycle just 62km. Absolutely shattered, we didn't venture far for dinner; only around the corner where Kate spotted someone eating fried mixed vegetables and frantically pointed to it before it was all gone. That, and a plate of pork with onions (tasted just like hot dog onions!) was a welcome change from rice.
Kilometers: 62
Total Kilometers: 2788
Day 104: Wangmo to Guilin (by bus and unexpectedly via Nanning)
We decided this morning that we would not be prepared to cycle the 120km to the next town via the mountain range in-between, and instead head to the long distance bus stop, where we buy bus tickets to take us to Guilin. At the bus station, we meet three Chinese cyclists who also rode from Ceheng yesterday.
They were also getting a bus outta there! We didn't feel so bad after that!
Kilometers: 0
Total Kilometers: 2788
Day 105: Guilin
Or so we thought! Fifteen hours later, at 7am, we wake to find that we are in Nanning, about 450km from Guilin. It would appear that we were not told of a required change; maybe this is communication problems rearing its ugly head again, it was difficult enough just buying the tickets. It cost us another £20 to get to Guilin and a further 7hr bus journey. We finally arrive at 2pm and head for the youth hostel; it's not too bad for Y80 (£8) per night and there's a McDonalds here so Kate's on the hunt for it.
Big Mac meal (go large!) scored!!
Kilometers: 0
Total Kilometers: 2788
